Chai desserts, from the kulhad to your plate

In India, chai is an emotion! Whether it is early in the morning along with a newspaper, in the afternoon as a peak-me-up after a heavy meal or in the evening along with nashta that consists of some piping hot bhajiyas, Indians can drink tea at any point of the day. It is served to guests who pop in for a visit or in situations where emotions are running high; there aren’t many circumstances that can’t be fixed with a cup of tea.

This delicate brew was first introduced to the world by China, and it continues to reign supreme as the largest tea producer and distributor. However, India is the second-largest producer of tea. According to Statista, Indian tea production amounted to over 1.37 billion kgs in 2023, with Assam and West Bengal majorly contributing to its production. As per a 2018 survey, Indians are the highest consumers of tea, with 80% of the tea produced being consumed by us.

This warming brew has the Indian population in a chokehold as it is comforting and very affordable, it is available in every nook and cranny of the country. It is no wonder then, that tea finds itself as a big inspiration for chefs when creating their menus, especially for desserts. December 15 is celebrated as International Tea Day in tea-producing countries like India, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Indonesia, Malaysia, Kenya, Malawi, Uganda and Tanzania. Chefs from across the country share how they were inspired by their simmering aromatic tea kettle.

Chai ki chuski

The most humble way to enjoy this brew is by standing at a roadside tapri, with a blackened pot of tea continuing to bubble away, getting darker in colour and stronger in flavour as the day passes. Taking a leaf from this scenario, Chef Sabby of Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, Mumbai “created a dessert to remind you of the moment you dip a piece of rusk into a glass of masala chai and eat it”. He says, “On the plate, we serve you a masala chai-infused date cake, with a quenelle of vanilla bean ice cream, which is drizzled with jaggery caramel sauce and gives you a jolt of nostalgia.”

Adding an Indian twist to the classical Italian dessert, the chai tiramisu at Badmaash, Mumbai is made with mascarpone cheese, savoiardi biscuits and masala chai, shares corporate chef Ishant Khanna. “In a tiramisu, every ingredient plays an important role. This recipe was a result of a trial that worked out. Replacing the coffee with Masala Chai keeps the essence of the dish alive.”

On the other hand, The Kind Roastery and Brewroom, Bangalore have taken the French cake - madeleines - and infused it with Assam tea which is known for its robust and malty character. It pairs well with cardamom's exotic aroma and elevates this dessert. Co-founder Pallavii Gupta shares, “The warmth of cardamom seamlessly entwines with the velvety richness of the Assam tea and together they create a balance of flavours. These ingredients help bring complexity to a humble dessert like the Madelines.”

Stemming from his love for tea, Gaurav Gidwani, corporate chef, Silly, Mumbai, serves a chai crème brûlée with a spiced sugar crust, pistachio biscotti and berries. He says, “Often, we conclude a meal with a cup of chai, and I wanted to offer a distinct experience to our guests. The pistachio biscotti resembles the kind of cookie one would dip into chai, and the acidity in the berries cleanses the palate, preparing it for the next delightful bite.” This dessert provides a unique experience of biting into tea rather than sipping it and the textural difference adds a layer of excitement, breaking the monotony of the mouthfeel.

At Ekaa, Mumbai, chef Niyati Rao dishes out a potato cake baked in a cast iron skillet till it achieves a golden brown finish and serves it with a real piece of honeycomb from the Sundarbans (West Bengal). On the side, is also a pearl jasmine tea ice cream that has been sourced from Dharamshala (Himachal Pradesh), which “adds a wonderful floral and earthiness to the dish”, she says, adding, “It is called the Honeycomb and is something between a French toast and a cake, with loads of butter and honey.”

Matcha power

Finely powdered and vibrant green, Matcha is made from tea leaves known as tencha and finds its origins in China. However, it is now considered Japanese as it is consumed in traditional tea ceremonies. It is teeming with health benefits and has become a trendy ingredient to infuse into modern recipes, like the matcha pancakes that “is a delightful modern twist on the traditional breakfast food” that pastry chef Soham Singh Panwar serves at The Westin Resort and Spa, Himalayas (Uttarakhand).

He adds, “They are infused with the distinctive and vibrant flavour of matcha powder. The vibrant green colour makes it visually appealing to eat and adds an element of surprise. This dish appeals to people who appreciate the traditional matcha flavour and those who enjoy exploring trendy culinary experiences.”

Taking a slightly more traditional route, Mizu Izakaya in Mumbai offers its patrons a Matcha Mochi Cake. Mochi is a Japanese rice cake made from glutinous rice and enjoyed as a part of traditional celebrations and ceremonies. The cake features a matcha sponge cake soaked with brewed matcha, red bean paste, jasmine tea ganache, yuzu mochi and white chocolate mousse. Head chef Chef Nikhil Menon was inspired by a traditional layered cake called kueh lapis in Malaysia. He described this dessert as “the most technical cake” he has ever designed, so far. “It's a layered cake — 19 to be exact. Each step of the layering process requires precise temperature and moisture levels,” he says, adding, “We often joke that essentially they are now enjoying a dessert made with rajma chawal and chai.”

Built on a foundation of crushed biscuits, Sriracha in Bangalore has a cheesecake on its menu that is an interpretation of the traditional dessert. Chef Vikas Seth says, “The matcha cheesecake acts as a canvas to showcase the versatile ingredient. We serve it with a berry compote, vanilla cream and an assortment of fruits, including kiwi, dragon fruit, and mandarin.”

A cuppa tea

Depicting London’s gloomy weather, early-grey tea is a blend that has been flavoured with oil of bergamot. Taking a cue from this drink, chef Vaibhav Bhargava from CHO Vietnam, New Delhi, serves up a pannacotta that is infused with the tea. It is paired with a cranberry coulis. He says, “Using Earl Grey tea in a panna cotta is a unique twist, considering the cultural significance of tea in India. The versatility of the panna cottaacts as a canvas for various flavours as its neutral and creamy nature makes it an ideal vehicle for absorbing and showcasing different tastes.”

This adaptability allows chefs to get creative with a wide range of flavour profiles, whether it's the classic vanilla, the richness of coffee, the tropical notes of mango, or in your case, the sophisticated essence of Earl Grey tea or matcha green tea. The combination of panna cotta with Earl Grey tea, sounds like a well-thought-out pairing. The delicate and aromatic qualities of Earl Grey tea likely complement the creaminess of the panna cotta, creating a harmonious and enjoyable dessert experience.