Rude Food by Vir Sanghvi: Why Champaran Meat is the new classic

Most Indian gastronomic classics —that is to say, dishes that you find on lots of menus — have been around for decades if not centuries. North Indian biryani dates back to the Mughals. What we now call Kerala biryani predates the Mughals by several centuries. The great kormas of Awadh are two centuries old. Rogan josh is so old that it is hard to even figure out when it left Kashmir and moved southwards.