Pahalgam terror attack: Four unarmed guards were tourists’ only safety net

The six kilometre long mountain dirt track between Pahalgam town market and the Baisaran meadow was not guarded by armed personnel and the closest thing to security for the tourists who visited the meadow, the site of the deadly April 22 attack that killed 26 people, were four unarmed guards from a cadre affiliated to the Jammu and Kashmir police, according to officials.

They added that there were no security officials deployed in Baisaran either.

The rare, targeted strike has put the spotlight on poor security at popular travel destinations in Kashmir and raised questions about arrangements made to secure the record numbers of tourists who descended on the Valley this year.

The four men guarding the stretch were from the tourist police division, which is largely used for assisting visitors.

Two of them were deployed at the point where the six-km track to Baisaran begins near the Pahalgam market and the other two where it ends, people aware of the matter said. Tourists can either travel to the meadow on foot or on horseback.

On Thursday, the area was out of bounds to all as top officials of the National Investigation Agency, accompanied by local police brass, were on the spot for crime scene investigations. They used all-terrain vehicles to reach the meadow.

“Four of our colleagues were deployed on the route to Baisaran that day. Many of us have carried out the same duties to assist tourists, guide them and ensure a hassle-free time,” said Muzammil Ahmed, a 27-year-old special police officer (SPO).

In a section dedicated to ”safety tips for tourists”, the J&K Police described Ahmed’s cadre as a ”special police force” posted at key places frequented by tourists to provide them assistance. It is headed by a superintendent of police, designated as deputy director tourism (enforcement), the site added.

Members of the tourist police are called SPOs but employed as daily wagers, said Altaf Hussain, a colleague of Ahmed’s. “You can say we are the only security there. And we are useless in a situation like that,” he added.

To be sure, a Central Reserve Police Force battalion and an army Rashtriya Rifles unit are headquartered near Pahalgam town. But there are no armed personnel on the route from the town to the meadow.

On Thursday, Ahmed and Hussain were posted at the Pahalgam toll plaza, ensuring that the few visitors entering the town bought their tickets from the operator.

“It’s noon and barely 50 vehicles have crossed the toll today. The number was in the range of 5,000 just three days ago. There’s nothing and no one in Pahalgam now,” said Mohammed Wahid, one of the toll operators.

Baisaran is off the main road in Pahalgam, which falls on one of two routes that pilgrims take to reach the Amarnath cave --- the other is the Baltal route near Sonamarg. The attractions near the meadow include the Dabyan valley, Kanimarg, Denow valley and Tulian lake.

Locals said the killings were unimaginable and a real body blow for tourism.

“We are finished along with our families as everyone here lives off tourism. Those killed in the attack could be counted but what about us --- we are as good as dead,” said 65-year-old Ghulam Nabi Lone, the president of the town’s main taxi stand.

Pahalgam has turned into a ghost city. The only sound one can hear is that of the Lidder river, racing to join the Jhelum.

“We need to look at how to rework our security grid to protect tourists,” said Lieutenant General DS Hooda (retd), a former Northern Army commander.