When will India create equal opportunities for curvy models?

Over the last few months, magazines and brand campaigns have set a new precedent for body positivity but a lot more needs to be done.

While the plus-size body positivity has been a movement of late both in India and internationally, a lot needs to be done in this direction. Labels like Sabyasachi have been featuring plus-size girls in their campaigns. Jill Kortleve, a 26-year-old Dutch model, became the first plus-size model to walk for Chanel in over a decade (last month she walked for the label’s Spring 21 couture). Moreover, a section of Indian magazines have made an attempt at including plus-size models and celebrities in their editorials.

For instance, plus-size model Hunter Mcgrady graced the cover of Sports Illustrated as its curviest sensation ever last year. The magazine which has always been synonymous with the cookie cutter mould of slim cover girls took a complete departure from that aesthetic.

The fact that a curvy girl like Hunter is being celebrated for being the magazine’s ‘curviest model ever’ speaks volumes about the changes sweeping the modelling and fashion world. Rooting for a realistic and relatable plus size, SI set a new precedent that curvy is sexy. McGrady shared on a recent podcast chat that when it comes to featuring plus-size models, the fashion industry has a long way to go. “As a plus-sized model – you kind of have to demand equal treatment and that is what I think [is] the hardest about it.”

Over the last five years, there has been a push towards advocating plus-size clothing and inclusivity at both FDCI-led Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week and Lakme Fashion Week. However, creating a special plus size show defeats the very purpose of inclusivity. Model Varshita.Thatavarthi laments, “I feel calling a runway show a ‘special plus size show’ is demeaning. There’s nothing ‘special’ about it. I want to be known as a model and not as a plus-size model and want to be paid well.”

Thatavarthi also observes that the phrase ‘sample size’ is demeaning and shouldn’t be used at all. “We need to collectively look beyond sample size. Also, sadly, in India, there are only a handful of designers, who are willing to fight this bias. Even today skinny girls are preferred and even agencies don’t pick models of all sizes as there’s hardly any work. I believe inclusivity in every form - it’s the future and it’s here to stay. Internationally, models like Ashley Graham have carved a path for girls like me. Why aren’t designers and magazines waking up to the fact that an average woman is size-16. Beauty is very subjective. Let people decide,” she adds.

Kamna Malik, Editor, Elle India shares, “While conversations on plus-sized women have been going on for some time now, not many magazines have taken active steps to show acceptance in the real sense. While digital has become a massive phenomenon, a magazine cover still holds a special place and is looked upon as something very prestigious and aspirational. So, when a magazine chooses to feature a plus-size model on the cover, they are making a statement. A right statement. Fashion is changing. How women are being perceived is changing. What women feel their own selves is changing. It’s all about acceptance and celebrating one self now. I think it’s high time magazines start recognising and celebrating true talent and achievements and move beyond the superficial.”

Ruchika Mehta, Editor, Femina India seconds that. “I think the trend is moving towards real women and real bodies, which is what most of our women have. The earlier template of cover girls were artificially woven dreams,” says Mehta.

Model Divya Jadhav shares, “In India, the plus-size movement has started as well, however, the proportion is yet 5:1, inclusivity doesn’t mean you just deliberately create a minority. There can be so much more inclusion, in terms of the mainstream commercial brands that actually affect the mentality of the masses, like for example, mass brands like Westside, Big Bazaar or maybe Lifestyle could play a bigger role. Fashion is yet accepting and inclusive but I think these models should even be given equal commercial opportunities.”