Spectator by Seema Goswami: Once upon a dine
Some authors offer readers a seat at the table with how they write about food. They make it an integral part of their stories, and flavour our lives
The books that got me hooked on reading were the ones by Enid Blyton, more specifically the Malory Towers series, set in an idyllic boarding house where Darrell Rivers and her band of intrepid friends had the most marvellous adventures. But what I loved most about these books were the scenes that described food: the midnight feasts that the girls sneaked off to, the ginger beer (Ginger beer? What was that about?) they guzzled on days out with their parents. Some of the food items they consumed were little more than words to me — but they were words that transported me to a world far away from mine, introducing me to tastes that I could only conjure up in my imagination.
Ever since those halcyon days of early childhood, I have been captivated by books that took food seriously (and by that I don’t mean food books — those are a different species entirely). As a teenager, even as I was enraptured by the love stories at the heart of Georgette Heyer’s Regency romances, my taste buds would come alive when she began describing what was served at the endless balls, routs and masquerades that the heroines attended. I still have no idea what ratafia tastes like but the name itself conjures up a different, more chivalrous age.
It’s the same story when I plunge into Elizabeth Jane Howard’s Cazalet Chronicles, as I do ever so often. Set after the First World War, it describes a milieu that is defined by meal times: the nursery teas served to the children; the elaborate three or even four course meals the adults settle down to, the ritual consumption of sherry and port. All of this with the aid of a devoted staff that cuts and chops, boils and roasts, bakes and grills so that those above stairs can feed and flourish.
The most evocative food writing, though, comes from one of my favorite writers: Donna Leon. The hero of her detective series set in Venice, Commissario Guido Brunetti, takes his food very seriously indeed. He stops by for a brioche and a coffee at one of his favoured shops on his way to work. He takes a little break for some tramezzini and a small glass of wine (this is Italy after all!) half way through the day if he is not traipsing back home for a nice hot lunch. And dinner is the highlight of the day, featuring antipasto, pasta, a meat course and dessert followed by a glass of Calvados, sipped meditatively while sitting on his terrace with his wife Paola and looking on to the splendid views of Venice laid out before him.
At the moment I am reading the new Jilly Cooper novel, Tackle. And even though the angelic Taggie, wife of reformed cad Rupert Campbell Black, is now a shadow of her former self, being treated for cancer, I find myself thinking back fondly to the many meals this gifted cook used to conjure up for her oblivious and ungrateful family.
I know they say that the best books provide food for thought. But I find that books that put some thought into food are the best of them all.
