Androgynous style for 2024: One vibe to rule them all
Androgynous style is finally for every shape, every colour of the rainbow and every occasion (almost). Here’s the 2024 update
It might take a bit of searching, but YouTube still has them – grainy videos from 2007, featuring not-yet-influencers offering tips on, “how to dress androgynous, you guys!”. The inspiration is clear: Cate Blanchett, playing a young Bob Dylan in I’m Not There, which released that year. It’s a hard style to pull off. Dylan and Blanchett are both bony. The look is all hard angles, dark glasses, scowl, slim cigarette and head of unkempt hair.
But the times, they are a-changin’. Modern androgynous fashion is no longer confined to making lanky women look like lanky men. Gender-fluid dressing is about men, women and non-binary folks across diverse body types finding common fashion ground. There’s room for colour, curves, a bit of flounce, and, finally, it’s part of the mainstream.
Pranav Misra, co-founder and CEO of Huemn; Shweta Kapur, founder and creative director of 431-88; and Abhishek Paatni, principal aggregator at online fashion store NoughtOne break down what androgynous dressing looks like today. Don’t think twice, it’s all right.
The mood. “The scope of androgynous fashion has definitely changed to become more inclusive,” says Misra. He attributes this positive change to the role of content creators. “A decade ago, conversations around fashion were limited to editors, brands and tastemakers. Now it’s become more democratic, with people voicing their opinions directly,” he says. “But it’s just the tip of the iceberg.”
Paatni believes that the definition of androgynous fashion remains the same, but fashionable folks have changed and embraced it more fully only recently. “People are now more self-aware, confident and fearlessly expressive,” he says.
The essentials. The traditional understanding of androgynous fashion was “power suits worn by women”, says Kapur. Now there are interesting variations on this idea. She describes her favourites as a “bit slouchy with lots of layering, borrowed from the boy’s aesthetic, but made feminine by half tuck-ins.” Most stylish wardrobes already include oversized blazers, white button-down shirts and straight tailored pants. They’re the basics for anyone who wants to try androgynous fashion.
Paatni’s key pieces include a suit with an oversized double-breasted jacket, paired with anti-fit pleated pants. “The looks also includes men in skirts and people wearing anti-fit cargos and oversized jackets,” he says.
The hacks. Because androgyny is about breaking free of gender norms, venturing into new design territory and rethinking the idea of sexy, it won’t work if you don’t own your look. Stylists can only do so much. “If you don’t know the person you are styling, you won’t do it well,” says Misra. What works is playing with sharp contrasts in terms of silhouettes, fabrics and concepts. Think voluminous pieces paired with fitted clothing, and bright accessories offsetting pale-hued ensembles. Think of Billy Porter at the 2019 Oscars, his sharp tux flaring out into a full-on skirt.
For those who want it a little toned down, Paatni recommends a sharply tailored suit with a loose button-down shirt and an eye-catching tie. “Or wear a man skirt with an oversized hoodie and some boots. It will look great!”
The inclusion. Yes, androgynous dressing honours body positivity. “Things have changed!” says Kapur. “It’s so refreshing to now see the same clothes on all body types. I love when the same fit is worn by two different body shapes. It adds character and life to the garment.”
Misra, however, acknowledges that fashion is cyclical. Whether the clothes are worn boxy or closer to the body (highlighting or covering up curves) depends on the trend of the moment. “What’s different from 10 years ago is the impact that the gaze of the outsider has on someone. Earlier, people were influenced by what others said but now we dress for ourselves,” he says.
The quick fix. “Layer everything,” says Kapur. The technique makes it easy to make a dramatic impact without trying too hard. She recommends accessorising with chunky shoes or brogues, a vintage belt, and aviators. “For the Indian summer, I would wear an oversized button-down shirt and open it halfway while tucking it into pants.”
And give the world something to focus on, says Paatni. “A great androgynous look should include a key silhouette, such as a man skirt, which should be accessorised with silver rings, boots and lots of kajal to play up the eyes.”
