Dejhoor to Ahali hara: How artisans are keeping heritage jewellery alive

Jewellery has always been more than just adornment. It is a link to history, culture, and identity. Across regions, distinct styles tell stories of ancestry. Passed down through generations, these heirlooms hold deep symbolic significance, marking milestones from birth to marriage and beyond.

Each piece of traditional jewellery carries its own cultural importance. For instance, toe rings, or bichiyas, are worn by married women in India as a symbol of marital status. Phugdi, a traditional earring often worn by Maharashtrian brides, represents prosperity and commitment. Kaleera bangles, dangling golden ornaments tied to a bride’s wrists in Punjabi weddings, signify blessings and good fortune for her new journey. Anjhur earrings, inspired by fig motifs, are deeply tied to fertility and prosperity in various regions.

Today, these heritage-inspired designs are making their way into modern wardrobes, as brands reinterpret traditional jewellery for contemporary wearers. From Dejhor jhumkas by Amama to toe rings by Anu Merton, heirloom pieces are being refreshed with modern sensibilities.

And this resurgence isn’t just about nostalgia or aesthetics. It’s a response to a growing desire for meaning in fashion. “There’s a shift towards jewellery that tells a story,” says Aavriti R Jain, founder of Dhora India. “People want pieces that connect them to their heritage and feel personal.” Consumers are moving beyond mass-produced accessories, opting instead for designs that reflect culture and craftsmanship.

Handmade techniques are also at the forefront of this revival. Olio Stories, for instance, collaborates with artisans in Jaipur to preserve traditional methods while evolving their designs. “Our haath phool is inspired by retro brides, and our Nagin Pendant reimagines the Patri amulet with sun, moon, and snake motifs,” says co-founder Ashna Singh. “It’s about honouring history while making it relevant today.”

At the heart of this movement are artisans—keepers of centuries-old skills, now shaping the future of jewellery. Brands working with local craftspeople ensure that traditional techniques don’t fade away. “We collaborate closely with artisans to maintain the authenticity of our designs,” says Jain. “Their expertise gives our pieces depth and meaning that mass production simply can’t replicate.”

Sustainability is another driving force. Brands are reworking archival elements, reducing waste while keeping heritage alive.

“We’re focusing on sustainability by reusing design elements from our best-performing styles,” says Nikita Gupta, founder of Amama. “It allows us to create something fresh while staying true to our roots.”