World Bartender Day: The rise of India’s bartending scene

Cocktails are more than just drinks; they are an art form, an equal mix of science, creativity, and skill. Behind every perfectly mixed concoction stands a bartender who brings stories to life, one sip at a time. We shed light on the Indian mixologists who are shaking, stirring, and innovating their way to international acclaim on World Bartender Day (February 24).

World Bartender Day, celebrated annually on February 24, honours the craft, creativity, and hard work of bartenders worldwide. What began as a recognition of mixologists’ skills has now evolved into a global movement.

Bartending in India has transformed remarkably over the years. Once considered an unconventional career, it is now a highly respected profession, with Indian mixologists gaining recognition on global platforms. The rise of craft cocktails, speakeasies, and homegrown spirits has boosted the industry.

The flair queen

One of the pioneers of flair bartending (a style of bartending that involves using bar tools and liquor in a showy way to prepare and serve drinks) in India, Ami Shroff has mesmerised audiences worldwide with her gravity-defying performances. She won the Mixologist of the Year at the INCA Awards in 2019 along with numerous accolades over the years.

Her journey began with this flair more than that, what pulled her in most towards bartending was the fact that it was largely male-dominated. “It felt like women were not wanted in this industry and that’s why I wanted to take a space in it even more because I felt denied. That’s what attracted me professionally,” she exclaims. Even today, she enjoys small appreciations and achievements, when people applaud her performance.

Talking about her signature ingredient, she loves using ginger in all her concoctions. “It is a rather simple and innocent ingredient available all through the year in India. It helps tone down the sweetness or sourness in a cocktail, giving a nice and refreshing spice kick to it. Being so versatile, it also pairs really with all types of alcohols, spirits and ingredients,” she adds. Apart from ginger, her other favourites are coconut, citrus, tamarind, kokum and hibiscus.

One unique flavour that inspires Ami to use in her cocktails is Indian mithais. “I like to take any Indian mithai and blend it with another juice or liquid base in the cocktail and that flavour comes in. A few that I have played with are laddoo and ras malai,” she explains.

Bonus fact: If she could serve a drink to one Indian celebrity or historical figure, she would choose Dr B. R. Ambedkar. She would make him any cocktail he liked depending on the time of day or the ingredients he loved.

The godfather of Indian bartending

With decades of experience, Yangdup Lama has been instrumental in shaping India’s bar culture and elevating it to international standards. However, he likes to call himself an accidental bartender as he was a hotel management school previously and came to Delhi to study that. “My discovery of bartending happened when I was assigned to work at a bar. After working there for a few months, I learned about the whole craft and I realised I had developed a certain interest towards bartending and mixing drinks. That’s when I knew that I wanted to be a bartender. Mostly, by accident not on purpose but I have never looked back since then,” he remembers.

Back in 1996, Yangdup had won the Old Monk Bartender of the Year while working at a hotel, which was the biggest boost of his career. This was his first award and also a turning point in his life. “It is now the most memorable and inspiring moment of my life,” he adds.

Yangdup was recently awarded the Roku Industry Icon Award 2024, making him the first Indian in the industry to win this title.

When it comes to his skills and crafts, there are a few signature cocktails that he has created over time but his favourite remains the Manhatten cocktail in his own way. “I don’t follow the classic recipe of rye or Bourbon whiskey. I like to use a little bit of Campari, a good quality cherry syrup or a cherry brine to give a touch of sweetness which balances the overall flavour of a Manhatten,” he adds.

He also comments on India’s cocktail culture which has greatly evolved over the years from people drinking a simple whiskey on the rocks to now confidently asking for more customised drinks and being open to more experimental drinks.

The master of balance

A maestro of balance and innovation, Santosh Kukreti is celebrated for his ability to harmonise flavours with precision. He started his career as a steward with no expertise in bartending or hospitality. Santosh learned all his skills and crafts from his mentor, Devender Sehgal who had won a cocktail competition. “I was truly inspired by his ethics and passion and that is what pushed me to start a career in bartending. Excelling high on his ethics, I got to share my contribution in bars like Ek Bar, Delhi and Masque, Mumbai,” he shares.

His bar was the first from Macau to be on the list of Asia’s Best 50 Bars at #48 in 2018. He has also been awarded the winner of Grey Goose House of Change Mumbai and Monkey Shoulder Cocktail Competition.

His signature cocktail is called Doctor’s Advice which he created for a cocktail competition in 2013. The cocktail gets its name from the ingredients used in it. “All the ingredients in my cocktail have medical connections s with a beautiful story around it. Gin was created by a doctor for the first time in the 14th century and is the base of my cocktail. It is infused with raw turmeric which is also good for your skin and a great immunity booster. The concoction also has ginger-honey syrup which helps during cold and has been used in Ayurvedic treatments for centuries. Lastly, lime and orange juice have vitamins and tonic water which is used to cure malaria,” he explains.

However, his successes did not come without tremendous challenges. The biggest one he faced was the availability of liquor and other fancy ingredients that are easily available in countries like Singapore, Japan and Thailand. “When I started my career, even the basic liquor like Campari was not available. However, I found a way around this by using homemade liquor and serving that which I still do,” he adds.

Fuelled by dreams

As one of India’s leading female bartenders, Arati Mestry has been a driving force in breaking gender norms in the industry. Her foray into bartending began with a TV show and books she used to read in her college days. “It was purely the passion which inspired me to become a bartender - a TV show on Travel and Living and the books I continued to read at Crossword that made me realise I wanted to be a bartender,” she adds.

Her signature cocktail is very evident as she has infused with her identity just how she likes to infuse flavours in her concoctions. As she puts it: “Only a handful of cocktails you can truly describe as timeless, and the Negroni is one of them. That first sip is confusing and not particularly pleasant. But it grows on you. You just don’t start liking a Negroni - it’s an acquired taste. As the saying goes, ‘You can’t be bitter and expect your life to be sweet’ and I add to that, ‘Unless you are a Negroni (moron).’ And those characteristics of Negroni resemble me.”

Despite hailing from a conservative family where alcohol consumption was taboo, Arati pursued her passion, breaking societal norms and emerging as a trailblazer for women and the LGBTQ+ community in India’s bar industry.

“I faced many challenges while paving my path, but they made me what I am today. From knowing the industry to getting known in the industry - it’s a self-made journey. What kept me going was the passion, the inspiration, the dream fuelled by those days reading, flipping through unaffordable books and surreptitiously photographing the pages,” she adds.

Over the years, she has won multiple accolades and has inspired many young women to pursue careers in bartending.

The alchemist of flavours

Santanu Chanda’s journey began in the world of bartending began in Goa, where he started by rinsing glasses. A turning point came when a bartender friend secured a lucrative position on a cruise liner, inspiring Santanu to pursue bartending as a career. During his tenure at JW Marriott, Pune, he participated in his first World Class competition, becoming part of a global community of bartenders.

His passion for blending unique flavours and pushing the boundaries of traditional cocktails has earned him multiple prestigious awards, including the title of World Class India Bartender of the Year 2024. His bar Home was also ranked 10th on the 30 Best Bars India 2024 list.

Throughout his career, Santanu has faced challenges, including overcoming initial scepticism and establishing himself in a competitive industry. His success has not only brought pride to his family but has also contributed to elevating India’s presence in the global bartending community.