India Couture Week 2019: Charting the course of couture

The 4 Cs - Carats, Caviar, Champagne and Couture - climax into a glittery fury of Indian craftsmanship as India Couture Week, organised by the Fashion Design Council of India in association with Hindustan Times commences today. The creme de la creme from Indian design galaxy will showcase a panoply of made-to-measure creations straight from their hallowed ateliers. From handwoven silks embroidered with multi-coloured threads and accentuated with crystals to 3D hand-cut applique work on skirts - it’s a cross-medley of ideas and influences. Abstract foliage patterns with architectural motifs and cutting-edge pieces realised with new-age technology define a new direction for Indian couture. Here’s a sneak peek into the key runway highlights.

RAHUL MISHRA
Inspo: A recent trip to the romantic Monaco in the South of France and the vivid memory of his childhood home in the sleepy village of Malhausi from Uttar Pradesh, India.

Embellishments: The motifs used in the collection are a dense play of florals, blended with architectural elements in a subdued form. Two- and three-dimensional hand embroidered surfaces have been created with Swarovski crystals and silken threads to imitate the lush greenery of rich undergrown gardens and lakes. The vivid interpretation of the landscape and the choice of colours lend the clothes the essence of a vintage painting.

Fabrics: The fabrics used for the collection are silk organza, to create lightness and for a sense of controlled volume, Muga silk.

Colour palette: Ivory and pastels colours have taken over cliché reds and golds. Tints of yellow and peaches whereas statement hues have navy and reds. Historically, white is an auspicious colour and was worn by brides for their weddings.

REYNU TAANDON

Inspo: A drive to Lake Tahoe was on the designers mind while finalising the colours for her collection.

Embellishments: Called The Savannah Saga, it is a fusion of traditional embroideries with modern silhouettes. The captivation of mirror work and graceful gold laser cuts enhances the embellishments and embroideries in perfect sync. One ca also see new techniques when it comes to setting up the khakha and dabka work on some lehengas.

Fabrics: Handwoven Chanderi fabric, silk satins, nets and georgettes are used to add a classic definition to the range.

Colour palette: the colour palette is soft with powder lilacs, old rose and mint greens

AMIT AGGARWAL

Inspo: Around three months ago, I was in London and I happened to stumble upon a virtual reality experience at the Saatchi Gallery called ‘We Live In An Ocean Of Air’ which illuminates the invisible but fundamental connection between the human and natural worlds. So stepped through the canvas to explore a magical world.

Embellishment: Called Lumen collection, it is an amalgamation of abstract foliage patterns with architectural, almost liner patterns played an integral part in the motif development.

Colour palette: is very eclectic, it blends an opaque colour with its metallic tone and it’s iridescent hue, almost making each colour into a superfluous flow of energy.

SHYAMAL AND BHUMIKA

Inspo: The collection takes its inspiration from the renaissance period. The designer duo traveled to the birthplace of the renaissance cultural movement to research about their culture and fashion. Detailing from the 15th century is prominent in the garment.

Embellishments: The garments dazzle with intricate embellishments, surface ornamentation and elaborate beading.

Fabrics: The designers have used regal lustrous raw silks, velvet, organza, crepe, georgette and translucent tulle in making the lehengas and saris.

Colour palette: The tones have been inspired by the ceiling frescos of the 15-17th centuries. An interesting variety of cuts have been created with colours like wine, blush pink, watermelon, grey, powder blue, muted olive and vintage cream.

SULAKSHANA MONGA

Inspo: Sulakshana Monga’s couture collection is inspired by the holy city of Benaras.

Embellishments: Meticulous hand embroidery and stitching has been done on each outfit making it more intriguing. The vedic chants have been embroidered in the creation making it the key highlight of the lineup.

Fabrics: The designer has developed her own Benarasi weave which has been used in making the lehenga and evening gowns. The other fabrics used are georgette, organza and soft silk.

Colour palette: An assembled palette from the baskets of flower sellers outside the temple, painted hues of Indian deities, faces of sadhus by the Ghats and the colours of festivals become the palette of this collection.

GAURAV GUPTA

Inspo: The designer seeks his inspiration from the undulating, infinite waves. His design personifies wearable art.

Embellishments: Textured chikankari embellished with gilded opulence of zardozi

Fabrics: GG’s menswear range has a lot of jacquard and rubia fabric used in making bandhgalas, tuxedos and shewanis. Gowns made in dreamy organza will also be seen during the show.

Colour palette: Soft lilac, rosewood pink, silver grey and lavender.

TARUN TAHILIANI

Inspo: The inspiration is the rich Indian textiles and has been titled bloom.

Embellishments: Resham embroidery has been further modified with Swarovski crystals.

Fabrics: Indian textiles such as neelambaris and chanderi have been prominently used throughout. Other lush fabrics like Italian tulle and silk will make the collection more luxurious.

Colour palatte: The collection is multicolored with hues like red, pale pastels, antique rose gold and aqua.

FALGUNI AND SHANE PEACOCK

Inspo: The designer duo takes inspiration from lively city of Jaipur.

Embellishement: Beautiful interplay of style and texture. Zardozi and appliqué have been intricately used in lehengas.

Fabrics: Sheer and net witness a magical showcase in the form of blouses and cocktail wear.

Colour palatte: The colour story seamlessly binds the collection together with shades like Spanish vanilla, lavender fog, smoke green, pewter, ballet pink, prism silver, scallop shell, Tuscan gold and midnight blue.

SUNEET VARMA

Inspo: Traditional motifs and embroideries from the decorative arts of India.

Embellishments: There is bead work, Swarovski crystals, mirror work and multi-coloured thread embroidery.

Fabrics: There is a wide variety of fabrics such as Satin, Silk, Net and Georgettes.

Colour palette: Dark shades of midnight blue and burgundy with silver accents. The Appliqué collection is in shiny silver and gold metallic foil. Emerald green, ruby red and Sapphire blue in teardrop and triangular crystals used creatively in 3 dimensional embellishment worn with dramatic and draped skirts and light celadon green , ice pink and ivory in a long asymmetrical tunics.

PANKAJ AND NIDHI

Inspo: Draws inspiration from Mosaic, an art form made by assembling small pieces of glass, ceramic or other materials.

Embellishments: The collection features three-dimensional hand-cut appliqué and precision inlay work with metallic fabric biscuits have been rendered on translucent tulles and satin-organzas to breathtaking effect. Precise and geometric embellished motifs turn a medieval inspiration into a graphic vision for the future.

Fabrics: translucent tulles, metallic fabrics and satin-organzas

Colour palette: Grays, citrine yellows and sapphire blues to molten gold and silver

Scheduler

Day 1

Monday, July 22

Amit Aggarwal 9.30 pm

Day 2

Tuesday, July 23

Suneet Varma 9.30 pm

Day 3

Pankaj & Nidhi ( Jewellery by House of Aynat) 8 pm

Visit MONACO presents Rahul Mishra 9.30 pm

Day 4

Sulakshana Monga 8 pm

Shyamal & Bhumika 9.30 pm

Day 5

Archana Aggarwal Timeless Jewellery presents Reynu Taandon 8 pm

Falguni Shane Peacock 9.30 pm

Day 6

Gaurav Gupta ( Occasions Fine Jewellery) 8 pm

Day 7

Swarovski presents Tarun Tahiliani 8 pm

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