Spice of Life: A visit to Israel, an enriching experience

Israel and Gaza are much in the news these days. In March 1998, I became the first Indian Army Chief to visit Israel at the invitation of the Israel Defence Forces (IDF). Even in that year, the visit was not without geo-political hiccups. On reaching Tel Aviv, I was informed that the Arab League nations had protested over my visit and I should avoid visiting Gaza and other Israeli-occupied areas.

The schedule was worked out by the IDF in consultation with our defence attaché. It was tough, devoid of ceremonials except for a simple guard of honour where the IDF chief Gen Lipkin-Shahak and I took the salute together. The IDF would take me out early morning every day to visit military establishments, border areas or to witness field demonstrations of their new equipment. They would bring me back less than an hour before an official dinner. The Israeli officers were very friendly and forthcoming on whatever I wanted to learn. I interacted with their commanders and soldiers and saw the hi-tech anti-infiltration systems and innovative tactics that had made the Israel-Lebanon border safe.

A remarkable demonstration was given by their Merkava tank crews. Most of the gunnery instructors were young women, many of them tank drivers. We also watched demonstrations of the unmanned airborne vehicles, thermal imaging stand alone systems, hand-held thermal imagers, long-range reconnaissance and observation systems, night vision devices and artillery radars. During the visit, I called on the Israeli defence minister Yitzhak Mordecai and addressed the Israeli National Defence College in Tel Aviv.

What impressed me most about the IDF was the highly professional, informal but ‘no nonsense’ conduct of its men and women soldiers. There were no protocols – only simple functionality. The best example that I can give is how my wife was conducted to visit IDF families, medical establishments, kibbutz and other places of interest. There were no helicopter rides or armed escorts for her. She would be taken in a car by a Major (lady), an English-speaking driver-cum-guide and a young photographer. En route, they would eat or drink at the same table. When walking, they would carry their plastic water bottles.

After three days of hectic schedule, I requested my IDF friends to call off a dinner so that my wife and I could rest early and digest all that we had seen. This was conceded. That evening, after everyone, including the security officials, left, my wife and I decided to take in some fresh air on the beach across the hotel. We left the hotel from a side door. Besides appreciating the Mediterranean air, we felt relieved being left alone and not constantly watched over by the security. After walking for three km along the road, we found a McDonald’s restaurant. We had a delicious snack of hamburgers, fries and coke. That exciting and romantic nocturnal escapade remains an unforgettable experience for both of us.

(The writer is a Panchkula-based former Chief of Army Staff.)